Standard US240 Ignition Switch - Reliable Car Engine Starter

The switch is fine, Chrysler's design not so much. :( I spent nearly 4 solid hours "dry testing" the fit and function of the old switch and this one to figure out how it goes together and functions. The installation instructions that come with the switch are fairly good, but some of the words used are mysterious and line drawings incomprehensible until you actually see how things go together. Suggestion 1: replace the lock cylinder at the same time if it is old - or especially an original. This will change the key, but is worth it. Suggestion 2: *the key has to be out of the lock cylinder* when you insert it into the switch, so that the rectangular metal tab on the lock cylinder AND the retaining pin are pulled in (not sticking out). If they stick out it will bend the side-switch inside the ignition switch lock cylinder hole that controls the auto door locks and they won't work properly anymore. Suggestion 3: look in the lock cylinder hole in the switch, at the bottom. See that black semi-circle plastic on the rim? Then look at the lock cylinder at the bottom and notice the metal "shark fin" piece. When put put the lock cylinder in, THEN put in the key to extend the rectangular tab, you slowly turn the cylinder clockwise until that "shark fin" drops down between those plastic semi-circles. THEN keep turning clockwise through the "start" area where you feel spring resistance. This extends the retaining pin on the lock cylinder. THEN turn back counter-clockwise all the way, which moves the lock-cylinder retaining pin into the plastic rectangular hole on the side of the switch, which then keeps the lock cylinder from popping out due to that spring at the bottom of the lock cylinder hole in the switch. Then you are done! Removal is the same. Once you turn it to the park position with the key in the lock cylinder, and then use a tiny screwdriver to push the lock cylinder retaining pin back in, *the key must be pulled out of the lock cylinder before removing it from the switch" to retract the rectangular metal post that pushes on the side switch. Otherwise it may bend that switch on the way out. There is a sort of one-way plastic cap on the side switch in the ignition switch lock cylinder hole such that it may survive *removal* of the lock cylinder if the key is in, but definitely won't survive installation with the key (haha I know, this is my second switch, I bent the side switch in the first one this same way by leaving the key in during lock cylinder insertion). I hope this helps others!